Tuesday, May 26, 2009

Ellora


The cave temples and monasteries at Ellora, excavated out of the vertical face of an escarpment, are 26 km north of Aurangabad. Extending in a linear arrangement, the 34 caves contain Buddhist Chaityas or halls of worship, and Viharas, or monasteries, Hindu and Jai temples.
Spanning a period of about 600 years between the 5 th and 11 th century AD, the earliest excavation here is of the Dhumar Lena (Cave 29).The most imposing excavation is, without doubt, that of the magnificent Kailasa Temple (Cave 16) which is the largest monolithic structure in the world. Interestingly, Ellora, unlike the site of Ajanta, was never 'rediscovered'. Known as Verul in ancient times, it has continuously attracted pilgrims through the centuries to the present day.
Ellora has been designed as a World Heritage Site, to be preserved as an artistic legacy that will continue to inspire and enrich the lives of generations to come.
Listing of Caves
Buddhist Caves: 5 th century to 7 th century AD
Caves 1 to 12 at the southern end
Hindu Caves: 8 th century to 10 th century AD
Caves 13 to 29 in the middle
Jain Caves: 9 th century to 11 th century AD
Caves 30 to 34 at the northern end

A LEGACY FROM A GOLDEN AGE


Ajanta and Ellora are the pride of Maharashtra. The rock-cut caves of both these sites are world famous and illustrate the degree of skill and artistry that Indian craftsmen had achieved several hundred years ago. Ajanta dates from 100 B.C. while Ellora is younger by some 600 years. The village of Ajanta is in the Sahyadri hills, about 99 kms. From Aurangabad; a few miles away in a mammoth horseshoe-formed rock, are 30 caves overlooking a gorge, `each forming a room in the hill and some with inner rooms. Al these have been carved out of solid rock with little more than a hammer and chisel and the faith and inspiration of Buddhism. Here, for the Buddhist monks, the artisans excavated Chaityas (chapels) for prayer and Viharas (monasteries) where they lived and taught. Many of the caves have the most exquisite detailed carvings on the walls, pillars and entrances as well as magnificent wall paintings. These caves were discovered early in the 19th century quite by chance by a party of British Officers on manoeuvres. Today the paintings and sculptures on Buddha’s life, belonging to the more mellow and ritualistic Mahayana Buddhism period, are world famous. Copies of them were shown in the Crystal Palace exhibition in London in 1866. These were destroyed in a fire there. Further copies were published soon afterwards and four volumes of reproductions were brought out in 1933 by Ghulam Yazdani, the Director of Archaeology of the then Hyderabad State. Ajanta has formed an epicentre of interest for those who appreciate and are eager to know more about Indian history and art.

It is a protected monument under the Archaeological Survey of India and has been listed in the World Heritage list of monuments.The 30 caves of Ajanta were created over a span of some 600 years.
In their range of time and treatments they provide a panorama of life in ancient India and are a source of all kinds of information... hair styles, ornaments, textiles, musical instruments, details of architecture, customs etc. It was from this collection of classical Indian art that a particular style was formed that traveled with Buddhism to many parts of the world. Similar paintings can be seen in Sigiriya in Sri Lanka, Bamiyan in Afghanistan, temples and shrines in Tibet, Nepal, China and Japan.

Royal patronage made Ajanta possible. Professional artists carried out much of the work and each contributed his own individual skill and devotion to this monumental work.

Visitors often ask how the artist who painted the detailed frescoes and chiseled out the intricate carvings, managed to work in the dark interiors of the caves. It has been noticed that the caves are illuminated by natural light for part of the day and it is presumed that metal mirrors or sheets of white cloth were used to reflect sunlight into the inner recesses.

Monday, May 25, 2009

Bamiyan


Bamiyan is a province in Central Afghanistan with an area of about 6700 sq.m and a population of about 280,00 in 1992. A town of the same name is the administrative center of this province. Bamiyan is counted one of the poorest regions of Afghanistan because of its geographic location and its isolation from other regions.

The village of Bamiyan with its archeological remains is the most conspicuous site of Afghanistan. The village lies about 2500m above sea level and some 240 km west of Kabul. The exquisite beauty of this valley is embraced by the snow-capped Range of Koh-e-Baba Mountains in the south and in the north by the steep cliffs in which images of Buddhas were carved. The pastel colors of its surroundings give visitors an impression of the magnificence and serenity of nature.

The area of Bamiyan developed under Kanishka the Great to become a major commercial and religious center and smaller statue of Buddha (38 m high) was built during his reign. Two centuries later the colossal Buddha statue (55 m high) was curved. Thousands of ornamented caves, inhabited by yellow robed monks, extended into Folladi Pilgrims from the entire Buddhist world poured into Bamiyan to admire its spectacular and sacred sites.

The town was rules in 07th century by princess but was subject to the Western Turks. The rulers first accepted Islam in the 08th century. Bamiyan fell to Muslim conquerors when the Saffavid ruler captured Bamiyan in 871. After changing hands several times, Bamiyan was destroyed and its inhabitants exterminated in 1221 by the Genghis Khan. Since that time it has never regained its former glory. In 1840 Bamiyan was the scene of fighting in the First Anglo-Afghan War. A significant number of tourists from all around the world were visiting this site before the Civil War in Afghanistan. Besides the Buddha caves there are various other sites as well in this area including Shahr-e-Gholghola and Shahr-e-Zohak.

Aa) BOT-E-BAMIYAN (Buddhas Statue):
The 02 famous Buddha statues (36 m & 53 m high) dating from 03rd & 5th century were located in Bamiyan province. These statues were hewn into solid rock and overlaid with stucco, and although they have suffered from the ravages of time and destruction by man, some of the stucco works and wall paintings are still preserved. The walls of the 90m high cliffs are honeycombed with caves that used to serve as living quarters of Buddhist monks. The sculptures and paintings are “an eclectic hybrid mixing Indian, Central Asia,

Iranian, and classical European styles and ideas. The caves were of various forms and the interiors of many bear traces of fine fresco painting that links them with contemporary caves in Sinkiang, China.

These statues were first mentioned in 5th century A.D. when these statues were visited by Chinese traveler Hsuan-Tsang in 630 A.D. At that time Bamiyan was a center of commerce and the Buddhist religion. When Hsuan-Tsang saw these statues, they were decorated with gold and fine jewels. The 02 Buddha figures, together with numerous ancient man-made caves in the cliffs north of town, made Bamiyan a major Afghan archaeological site. Taliban officials destroyed these statues in 2001. Clerics interpreted Islamic law to mean that such artifacts were disrespectful to Allah, though the world (including the governments of Iran and Saudi Arabia) begged them to reconsider. Now little remains of these shrines are left. The modern town of Bamiyan lies below the caves.

Bb) BANDE AMIR LAKES:
It is the unspoiled natural beauty of Afghanistan that forms the visitor’s first and most enduing impression of the country. But of the entire natural wonders of Afghanistan, the lakes of Bande Amir are perhaps the most outstanding. Situated in the mountainous Hazarajat at an altitude of approx 300m, 75 km from Bamiyan, these majestic blue lakes are of legendary beauty.

A series of five clear blue lakes is formed by the flow of water over a succession of natural dams, running from higher to the next one below. According to local tradition, the dams were the creation of Hazrat Ali (Caliph Ali), and the word “Amir” (King or Commander) refers to the Caliph, not to any Afghan ruler. Bande Amir is also the name of a river which rises in the Bande Amir lakes and runs through Yakowlang valley in a southwest direction until it turns northeast, at that point it is known as the Balkab, finally it turns north and dissipates in the Turkestan plains.

Cc) SHAHR-E-GHOLGOLA (Town of noise):
The cave town of Shahr-e-Gholgola is located in central part of Afghanistan. These are the ruins of a once prosperous city of 05th to 07th A.D., which was demolished by Genghis Khan during his invasion in Bamiyan Valley in 1221 A.D. The name is derived from Persian and means the “city of noise”. Others refer to it as “Silent city” or “Screaming city”. The Mongols themselves have called this city “Mao Balegh”, meaning the “Cursed city”. Infact when Genghis Khan brought the defenders of this town to their knees where upon he entered the citadel to fulfill a vow to kill everybody including man, woman, child, bird and animal in the valley. The scream that accompanied the final massacre gave the citadel the name by which it is known today.

Dd) SHAHR-E-ZOHAK (Red Town):
This is another cave town located just near to Shahr-e-Gholgola. This city is built on a steep spur just 15 km east of Bamiyan. These ruins are situated a top 350 ft cliffs of red colour overlooking the Valley of Tagao, Bamiyan. Due to these red colour cliffs, this city is known as “Red Town”. The ruins of this town represent the Buddhism era of 05th to 07th century A.D. This mass of impressive ruins was once the principal fortress protecting the entrance of the city of Bamiyan during the reign of the Shansabani King in 12-13th centuries A.D. Genghis Khan destroyed this town in 1221 A.D. as revenge to his wounded grandson.

HERAT


Herat was one of the largest cultural and Islamic centers in the Central Asia in 14th through 16th centuries. Herat is the third large city in Afghanistan with 150,000 population in 1992. It is located in the western part of Afghanistan bordered with Iran and custom port of Islam Quala connect the 02 countries; Afghanistan & Iran. Herat is the center of the same name of Herat Province.

Herat was once a small, provincial, relatively green, laze-about place that everyone seemed to like, an easygoing oasis after a lot of hassle and dry desert. In the 15th century, Herat was the Timurid center of art, poetry, miniature painting & music, blending Persian, Central Asian and Afghan cultures to create one of Central Asia’s cultural highlights.

From the first half of 15th century to the beginning of 16th century, Herat intensively grew by territorial size and population. Particularly, by the time of Ali Shir Nawahee, this city developed not only as capital, i.e., largest center of handicraft productions and trade, but also as outstanding artistic and cultural center of Central Asia. Similar to the city of Herat had not been neither in all Middle East region, nor in Central Asia.

The economy of Herat is based on agriculture, the planting of cotton, rice, and wheat. Home industries produce rugs, carpets, silk materials, fur jackets and products of camel hair. Herati rugs have a worldwide value. The economic and agricultural activities in Herat have concentrated in the valleys of Hari Rod River. Herat historically has a great historic and tourist value. The traditional buildings and mosques, which form the dominant architectural accent of city, have played a significant role to attract mass of population and tourists to this historic city, which is 645 km west of Kabul.

The places of interest in Herat are as follows:

Aa) MASJET-E-JAM:
The Friday Mosque or Masjet-e-Jam is Herat number one attraction and among the finest Islamic buildings in the world, certainly the finest in Afghanistan. “Masjet-e-Jam” is the largest building in this region and is known for its beautiful tile and mosaic decoration. Ghorid Sultan Ghiyas-ud-din originally laid out the form in which it stands today on the site of an earlier 10th century mosque in year 1200. The mosque is an exciting example of the artistic sophistication of the Ghorid. The various artworks in this mosque also provide the visitors an opportunity to compare the Ghorid and Timurid tiles work. The restoration work on this mosque started in 1943 as an effort to return it back to its past glory. Besides the artwork, other attractions in this mosque are the huge bronze cauldron, which used as a receptacle for Sherbet (a sweet drink) but now a day it is used for collection of donations, the unadorned tomb of Sultan Ghiyas-ud-din, and a tall pillar in the garden that was erected to commemorates Afghanistan’s fallen soldiers.

Bb) THE CITADEL (Qala-i-Ikhtiyar-ud-din)
Built in its present form by Malik Fakhruddin in 1305 A.D., this citadel has a long & stormy history as conquerors like Genghis Khan and Tamerlane fought beneath its walls. This fort, originally built by Alexander the Great, suffered repeated attacks over the history but still dominated the landscape of Heart. Held by the Ghaznavids, the Seljuks, the Ghorids, the Mongols, the Timurids, the Safavids and others, the citadel is a reminder of the time of Kings, conquerors and great pageantry.

Cc) MOUSALLAH COMPLEX:
On a short walk from the city center are the remains of old madrassa built by the Queen Gaur Shad in 1417. The wife of Timurid ruler Shah Rukh, Gaur Shad was the daughter-in-law of Timur and a remarkable woman in her own right who kept the empire intact for many years. The Mousallah Complex has been described as the most beautiful example in color in architecture ever devised by man to the glory of his God and himself. Gaur Shad’s mausoleum still stands near the madrassa. There were 12 minarets in this complex but six of them were demolished by British troops in 1885 whereas earthquakes subsequently downed rest of the three in 1931 & 1951. The mausoleum of Gaur Shad still stands near the madrassa. This is a beautiful tomb with tile work and typical ribbed dome as of Tamerlane in Samarkand.

Dd) TOMB OF THE POET JAMI:
The other attraction in Herat is the tomb of famous 15th century Persian poet, Nur-ud-din Abdurrakhman Jami, who died in 1492. Jami was the greatest of the 15th century’s poets, a titan during a period characterized by supreme literary brilliance. His simple tomb sheltered by a spreading pistachio tree, lies in the garden of a mosque.

Ee) GAZAR GAH:
The shrine complex of Gazar Gah (1425) is about 5 km east of Heart. Here Shah Rukh built many buildings, which were lavishly decorated with brilliant tile work. The main attraction is the tomb of Khawaja Abdullah Ansar, a famous Sufi mystic & poet who dies in 11th century. Crouching in front of the shrine’s main portal, its nose resting lightly on its paws, there is a white marble statue of an animal, variously thought to be a lion or a dog. Next to him is the tomb of Amir Dost Mohammad, one of the former kings of Afghanistan. The other main attractions in Gazar Gah are Main iwan (main court), a fifteen-foot marble pillar depicting the artwork of Timurid period. A remarkable sarcophagus called Haft Qalam (seven pens) fashioned of black marble, Khana Zarnegar (Pavilion adorned with gold) and Hauze Zamzam (Sacred water pond) are the other attractions.

Ff) CHAHRSUQ:
Herat bazaars are full of fascination and colour. As in most large towns in Afghanistan, the four main bazaars of the old city come together at a central square called the Chahrsuq or Four Bazaars. This is the hub of the old city and in addition to the shops lining the streets there are several covered bazaars in the vicinity. Another monument of architectural interest situated within this bazaar is a large covered reservoir of 1634, which was used to distribute water in the city during the Safavid’s period.

Gg) CHISHT-I-SHARIF: Chisht-i-Sharif is some 177 km from Herat city. It is a scant but as you approach it across a plateau, you can see the 02 famous gumbad or domes of Chisht. The town with its meandering bazaar street sits in the ravine between these plateaus. Winding down & up, you will find an avenue of pine trees leading directly to 02 ruined buildings now standing in the middle of an extensive graveyard. Experts argue as to the purpose of these buildings. Some speak of them as mausoleums. Others see them as parts of a grand complex of buildings, a madrassa, perhaps with its mosque. The mutilated molded terracotta brick decoration can only speak softly their former magnificence. Stylistically, the decoration of these buildings falls into the category of Ghorid arch in the Masjet-e-Jami and the minaret of Jam, both of which bear the name of Ghiyas-ud-din Ghori (1157-1202).

Kabul



The capital of war torn Afghanistan is one of the oldest cities in Central Asia. Kabul is situated on the Kabul River and is one of the highest capital cities (1800 m - above sea level) in the world. The history of Kabul dates back to the legendary times of epic Ramayana when Kubha is mentioned as the founder of the city. Lying at the crossroads Kabul was always victim of invasions and civil strife. During the reign of Kushanas the city must have been a place of importance since it led the way to their winter capital of Peshawar. In the vicinity of Kabul was the famous Begram, which had attained its prominence of being an important center of the eastern Hellenic Art. Kabul rose to importance when Mughal Emperor Babur made his capital and since then it inter-acted with various ruling dynasties. The recent history of Kabul is painful being subjected to incessant civil war and lately under the wrathful rule of clerics.

The Nation’s chief economic and cultural center, it has long been of strategic importance because of its proximity to the Khyber Pass. This city grew as an industrial center after 1940 and the main products of this city were textiles, processed food, chemicals and wood products, Tajiks are the predominant population group of Kabul and Pashtuns are an important minority. Kabul University, which is now partially opened, was founded in 1932 and during 70’s and 80’s it was the best known in the region for higher education.

Kabul was occupied by Soviet troops in 1979 and later it went through the toughest and most disastrous civil war of its history from 1992 to 1996. Taliban later ruled the city from 1996 to 2001 before the Northern Alliance took over the city as Taliban withdrew from Kabul after the American intervention in Oct 2001. Currently, Kabul is the capital of Transitional Government being led by Mr. Hamed Karzai.

The city of Kabul, which used to be a tourist attraction, has lost its charm during the last 24 years of its history. Infrastructures such as roads and traffic system, telephone and electricity system, water sanitation, renovation of buildings is in shambles and the need for reconstruction is very much needed to bring back the city to a better place for living. The major places of interest in Kabul are as follows:


Aa) KABUL BALA HISAR:
The Bala-Hisar means a citadel or fortress within a walled town on top of a ridge or hill. Bala-Hissar as town’s main defensive complex has served as residence of Afghan rulers. Most of Afghan historic cities have a Bala-Hissar. The famous emperors like Babor Shah and Timor Lang are said to have resided in it. This 06th century old fortress has witnessed most of the exciting events of the century’s history until 1880 when it was destroyed during the second Anglo Afghan war. Nadir Shah started the process of reconstruction and since 1939 it served as military college until it was left in ruin by the bombardments & skirmishes.

Bb) KABUL MUSEUM:
The Kabul Museum, which used to have one of the finest collections of antiquities in Asia, has had nearly three-quarters of its finest collections looted. It is still possible to see the remaining artifacts - those without any significant monetary value. Museum hours are erratic.

Cc) GARDENS OF BABUR:
The pleasant Gardens of Babur were once a cool retreat near the city walls. Moghul Emperor Babur laid out these gardens in 16th century and later Amir Abdul Rehman made few additions and later Emperor Shah Jehan built a mosque. Babur died in Agra in 1530 but he loved these gardens so much that he wished before his death to be buried in these gardens. His Afghan wife, Bibi Mobarka, who built his tomb in these gardens, fulfilled his wish. Recently these gardens were in ruin but now AKDN (Aga Khan Development Network) has taken the responsibility of its re-construction to return back to its past glory.

Dd) ARG (Palace):
Amir Abdul Rahman (1880-1901) built this citadel to operate the Bala Hisar places. Within the Arg, there was Salam khana (hall of salutation) and the Dilkosha Palace (Heart Delight palace). Later it was used for presidential offices until it was left in ruin due to heavy bombardments.

Ee) MAUSOLEUMS:
The tomb of Timur Shah, son of Ahmad Shah Durrani, who moved the capital from Kandahar to Kabul, was built in 1817. A charming landmark of the city is the mausoleum of Amir Abdul Rahman, one of the Afghanistan’s most rulers. It stands in Zarnegar Park, in the center of the city as a fine example of 19th century architecture remaining in Kabul. The imposing white-marbled, blue-domed mausoleum of Nadir Shah stands on the hill known as Tapa Marajan overlooking Kabul.

Ff) BAZAARS:
Kabul’s many colorful bazaars were the places to attract a large number of visitors for shopping and sightseeing. Among the most famous, which exists in today’s Kabul as well are Chicken Street, Shor Bazaar and Bazaar-e-Charchata.

Gg) MOSQUES:
Since Afghanistan is an intensely Muslim country and for centuries the Muslim rulers have ruled it, therefore, the rich Islamic heritage can be seen in architecture of many interesting mosques. The most famous ones in the center of the city are:

Masjid-e-Pule Kheshti, Masjid-e-Shahe Du Shamshira, Masjid-e-Sherpur (Blue Mosque), Masjid-e-Id Gah, Masjid-e-Syed Majnun Shah & Masjid-e-Wazir Akbar Khan.